A Fly for the Flats
© Ed Mitchell 2005
I want share a fly with you, one that has worked very well for me while sight-fishing for striped bass. It's not a complex fly, nor does it involve any unusual materials or tying techniques; it just works. And over the seasons it has accounted for bass from under four pounds to over forty inches. But before we look at that fly, lets take a look at the criteria that go into a good flats fly.
A good all-around striper flats' fly must meet three requirements. First, it must look enticing in clear water, even at slow retrieve speeds. Second, it must sink fairly rapidly, without being so heavy as to land with a "Kerplunk". And third, it should be easy to cast accurately, even with a relatively light rod.
Yes, I know what you're thinking: some effective flats flies don't conform to these rules. You're right; a heavily weighted crab pattern is one example. But remember we're talking about a good general purpose flats fly, one that works in a wide number of sight-fishing situations. And when that's the task, these requirements make sense.
The first requirement shouldn't raise any eyebrows. After all flats fishing is common a game of slow retrieves in gin clear water. Hence an fly that hopes to be deadly has to look yummy under those conditions. Therefore I like flies made with soft materials such as marabou or thin hackle. And I suggest, where appropriate, you tie the wing a bit long, so its free to wiggle even in the weakest current. Suggestions on color? Nearly everything stripers eat on the flats is drab. So earth tones rule. Pale shades of tan and brown, pale olive greens and dirty yellows are frequently the right choice.
Now lets look requirement number two. On the flats, a fly that hugs the bottom is typically more effective that a fly that suspends or stays on top. How come? On the flats, much of the food that stripers seek is either near the bottom or hiding in it. Consequently a low swimming fly not only looks natural, its in the striper's target zone. Bingo.
OK, but how fast should it go down? Its fair to say that many experienced flats anglers avoid super heavy flies, the type that cause a commotion when they land. Those flies may work well on deep flats, and on rough days, but in calm shallow water a delicate presentation is usually the way to go. So how much weight should the fly have? I like a fly that can reach the bottom in about 3 seconds. A fly that takes longer, forces you to lead the fish a greater distance, and that causes trouble. For one thing, in order to lead the fish farther you must see the fish sooner. And Lord knows, fish on the flats tend to be like ghosts, appearing out of nowhere. Worse yet, they can pop up practically at your feet, where a long lead is impossible. Lastly, the greater the distance you lead the fish, the more time the fish has to change directions before ever seeing the fly. Not fun.
Finally lets discuss the third requirement. On the flats accuracy counts; you must consistently be able to drop the fly near to and in front of the fish. No question about it. Any fly that spins, or is in any way difficult to cast is simply not going to produce that kind of accuracy. Or equally bad, it is going to twist your leader. So we want a fly that is reasonably streamlined. And moreover, I like a fly that you can deliver on a dime even with a light rod. Yes, nine and ten-eight fly rods do have a place on the striper flats, but these heavier fly lines are not conducive to soft presentations. An eight or seven-weight rod is a bunch better, and I like a six-weight too.
The Half & Half
Sight–fishing for striped bass is a blast. The “half & half” combines two great flies - the Clouser Deep Minnow and Lefty’s Deceiver. For flats work this fly should be tied sparse using neutral colors (tan, olive, pale yellow and green…etc.) Although sparse, the wing can be fairly long resulting in a fly of 4” on a size 2# hook. These long thin flies have excellent action in the water even at slow retrieve speeds and are easy to cast on 6 & 7 weight fly rods.
Occasionally some one will ask me if the long tail has a tendency to foul. Typically it doesn't, at least while the fly is still in good shape. But after a couple of fish the hackle quills may get weakened and then the fly can foul. To avoid this problem, don't wrap the hook shank with Bill's Bodi Braid. Instead tie in a collar of bucktail. The collar will help keep the tail in place. You don't need a big collar; a small amount of bucktail will suffice.
Hook: sizes 6# -1# Gamakatsu SL11-3H or equivalent heavy wire hook
Thread: Danville Flat Waxed Nylon, neutral color preferred
Hackle: Thin hackle in tan, green or olive
Flash: Pearl or Peacock flash material of your choice
Hook Shank: Bills Bodi Braid, pearl (or a collar of bucktail if you like, keep it sparse.)
Wing: Bucktail is fine. White, or tan, or pale green, or olive.
Painted Lead Eye: To match hook size - 6/8# hooks use (x-small) 1/50 ounce, 2/4# hooks use (small) 1/36 ounce, 1 /2# hooks use (medium) 1/24 ounce
The End